T-shirt e camicia Acne Studios f/w 2014/15
Tutti pazzi per le stampe: la moda uomo ha già sdoganato fantasie floreali, disegni di animali e commistioni con l’arte astratta e pop. Acne Studios compie un ulteriore passo: fa diventare cool persino la graniglia, la tecnica per pavimentazioni in marmo in voga soprattutto nei primi decenni del Novecento. A cura di Angelica Pianarosa, Foto Michele Gastl.
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Editor Gioele Panedda, … Continua a leggere →
Siamo nel pieno degli anni Novanta: dominano la scena i tessuti sintetici di derivazione sportiva e camicie e polo super attillate. I designer più sperimentali sbirciano i disegni/fantasia del prêt-à-porter e li trasportano sul menswear. Foto Rennio Maifredi, Styling Alessandro Calascibetta, Polo Carol Christian Poell e pantaloni Katharine Hamnett.
In full Nineties: synthetic fabric from sportswear and very tight-fitting shirts/polos hold the stage. The most experimental designers peek prêt-à-porter’s patterns/prints and carry them in menswear. Ph Rennio Maifredi, Styling Alessandro Calascibetta, Polo shirt Carol Christian Poell and trousers Katharine Hamnett.
The Norfolk jacket. Contemporary menswear often brings back to fashion an archetype of the past. This doesn’t mean that we can’t find anything new in shops neither that today’s clothes are imitations (this is a totally different matter). What designers – since ever – have done is to draw inspiration from a certain era, keeping its charm untouched, but updating the reference model according to the new rules of menswear, starting from fabric and colours. In this week’s picture we can see a Norfolk jacket, a kind of blazer that was very popular in the upper bourgeoisie in the last 20 years of the 19th century. It was worn especially for hunting, with the knee-length knickerbockers and riding boots. Let’s see how to wear the Norfolk jacket’s reinterpretation: not an accurate quote, but with a bit of dandyism. The actor Basil Rathbone as Sherlock Holmes in a movie of the 40s.
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Io Donna and Sette.
