The silhouette starts from below. Many brands that have made fashion history – such as Prada, Gucci, Hermès, Vuitton, Trussardi- at the beginning produced “only” accessories. The same for Berluti (part of LVMH group): the total look development starts from here. Alessandro Sartori debuted as creative director last winter, in 2012: his collections are appreciated, describe with emphasis a male tendency for luxury, so that Berluti opened a boutique last january in Via Sant’Andrea in Milan, in the heart of “quadrilateral”. “Thinking about the silhouette starting from below, that is from the shoes, has been a fascinating and innovative exercise”: in short, Sartori starts from a different point of view to create very surprising outfits, “in which the leather handling and handmade treatments, make every garment special and unique”. Obsessive care for details is Alessandro’s strong point: when he was the creative director of ZZegna, he described me the collection each and every point, with such a meticolousness and passion  that I’ve rarely found in others designers. A passion that includes enthusiasm, ardor, involvement and above all emotion. “I love the light that comes from some men, regardless of age and origin, that creates a rare and exclusive, almost magic, effect”. Well done, Alessandro, we wait for you with open arms! above, Alessandro Sartori wears Berluti total look. Picture from Style by Matthew Brookes; below, Berluti brogue, model “Dark Chocolate”.

Le nuove leve di fashion designers stupiscono con un ritorno alla semplicità. Per l’a/i 2013 niente voli pindarici e affettazioni, prevale una moda uomo dalle linee pulite ed essenziali in cui però la ricerca del fitting e dei materiali diventa protagonista: rigore d’ispirazione orientale nelle forme, ma anche un po’ Amish, quasi frugale, dato dai tessuti di lana grezza e dall’uso del panno pesante. Così il gilet di Comeforbreakfast ricorda le corazze dei Samurai, mentre sotto la giacca doppiopetto di Studiopretzel spunta una cintura Obi.

Foto di Decabibò

Styling e testo di Angelica Pianarosa

Nelle foto, da sinistra in senso orario, i total look di: Comeforbreakfast, Andrea Incontri, Two Italian Boys e Studiopretzel.

Paul Smith, one of the most farsighted creative talents in fashion, has always trusted in colours. Ages before others. Picture by Giorgio Scola.

Style Magazine esce nuovamente, come lo scorso maggio, con un’edizione speciale dedicata alla Cina: Italian Style. Come il precedente, il magazine verrà sia distribuito in Italia che consegnato insieme al visto a tutti i turisti cinesi in visita nel nostro paese. Questa volta in concomitanza con un evento organizzato da Style con la Fondazione Italia Cina: la conferenza “La Cina che verrà – come cambiano gusti e scelte dei cinesi che visitano l’Italia”, che avrà luogo  lunedì 18 novembre alle 18.30 in Via Balzan 3 a Milano. Il servizio moda contenuto all’interno di Italian Style che vedete in queste foto, questa volta è di Gianluca Fontana, lo styling è di Alessandro Calascibetta. Fashion Editor assistant Angelica Pianarosa. Capelli di Nicholas James per Greenapple e Make-Up di Adalberto P. per Freelancer. I brand presenti nel servizio fotografico sono citati nei crediti anche in lingua italiana.

Style magazine will be out again, as well as last may, … Continua a leggere →

A dark and comfortable second skin. Massimiliano Giornetti, creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo, has designed a winter collection that this year considers a lot of leather and a lot of black. The next collection, instead, is going to be colorful and “signaling”. There has been a change of mind in the meanwhile? A sudden nostalgia for total-black followed by “regret”? I don’t think so, because Giornetti knows his stuff and this redirection, in complete opposition to last seasons, is part of the creative path of important brands: Prada docet. But let’s go back to the current season, so dark, austere. “There’s not nostalgia, rather a contemporary interpretation of the “dark” style: I like the idea of a palette converging in black intensity, a color scale taken to extreme saturation: grey, blue and dark green that blend”, says the designer. Leather, processed with rubberization, is in some aspects more “technical”. At a glance, the Ferragamo adv campaign has a martial look, more rigorous than the previous ones, a quite dramatic mood. “I wouldn’t say dramatic, but more intense, thank to the natural light choice, that draws geometries, pulses the space and wraps around face and body of Tyson Ballou, portrayed with the purpose of communicating a sense of organic continuity between architecture and nature”. The jacket in the picture has a squared and austere cut, softened by the leaning made of tone on tone fabric. Austerity, so, but not excessive. And comfort. In the picture by Letizia Ragno (detail) black leather jacket by Salvatore Ferragamo.