Sabato sera, a Londra, la “Men London Collection” di Dolce & Gabbana, ha dato il via al periodo della moda uomo. Con questa collezione i due designer sottolineano il fatto che gran parte della loro produzione maschile si rivolge anche ad un pubblico conforme alla tradizione e alle regole sartoriali. Le tinte dominanti sono il blu, il marrone e il nero
fino alle diverse declinazioni del grigio; alcune stoffe hanno un disegno geometrico d’effetto psichedelico che rimanda alla Londra anni ’60 di “Blow-up”.

Last Saturday, in London, “Men London Collection” by Dolce & Gabbana has starded off the men’s fashion period. Through this collection the two designers highlight the fact that a big part of their male production is dedicated to customers consistent with tradition and sartorial rules as well. Prevailing colours are blue, brown and black, up to different shades of grey; some suits have geometrical patterns with a psychedelic effect that reminds us the Sixties’ London in “Blow up”.

Black leather has been relegated for many years in “gone by” trends’ oblivion. In Minimalist period – from ’90 to ’00- there was a great success of those long dark coats that, incidentally, I’ve never liked. It was also the era of DSquared’s total black leather, while Paul Smith used it just for the five-pocket pants but combined them cleverly with fabric clothes, celebrating a not-fetish-related street style. To date, Chiuri and Piccioli (Maison Valentino), created a collection for next fall/winter season based on fusion of (black) leather and wool: leather inserts stiffen both wearability and silhouette but express a new concept of male fashion, that places their show between those forward-looking. Soon on Style magazine will be published a shooting I realized with Giovanni Gastel, in which I remarked the trend and the return of black leather, with a styling that mixes it with clothes made with very classic fabric and revisited traditional patterns. If wearing the polished napa leather waistcoat under a glencheck blazer seems too daring, simply try to wear the perfecto with a pair of pinstriped wool trousers. In this picture a detail of Valentino’s leather and wool coat with – under- a leather jacket by Costume National Homme.

Dark leather menswear is back from the 90’s. The trend started over again since last year’s fall winter collections. Photo by Larry Scott. Coat by Emporio Armani, waistcoat by Jean Paul Gaultier, trousers by Les Hommes.