I have been writing on many occasions about the importance of a good styling to pull off a successful fashion shooting. When shooting menswear a good styling is even more essential, because everyone knows that being extravagant in womenswear it’s allowed but when men try to be original and fashionable they are usually looked upon with suspicion and classified as laughable. This doesn’t happen abroad, in countries like Great Britain, France and many others in the U.S. the melting pot of races and costumes it’s peacefully accepted as part of everyday life. The result of the intersections between colors and fabrics from different cultures can be outstanding. In order to “bring” to Italian magazines the beauty and distinctiveness of collections designed by those who have been inspired by the exoticism of the East(Etro is one among many), we should get into a more liberal and open minded mood just like those countries. Would it be too weird for Italian readers to combine fabrics with different patterns? Yes. So we opted for a combination of Paisley and chamois leather clothing which is an original look indeed, however it would be nice to follow the waves of fashion and look towards the future with less prejudices. Duster coat/dressing gown by Etro.

L’house music ha ormai assunto molteplici sfaccettature determinate da un’evoluzione, che ne ha forse confuso le vere origini. Ma quando si parla di deep house di certo non si può non citare il nome di Kerri Chandler. Nato nel New Jersey nel 1969, sin da piccolo Chandler eredita dal padre dj la passione per la musica che, in quegli anni intensi e ricchi di stimoli, divampa in lui sempre più viva e accesa. Chandler inizia poi a frequentare i club newyorkesi durante il periodo clou della deep-house, nei quali si esibivano i migliori dee jay dell’epoca, ricordati tutt’oggi come miti indiscussi. Progresso, innovazione e azzardi non rientrano nel mood di Kerri Chandler, eterno affezionato e fedele alla cassa piena e a campionature di suoni profondi che ne svelano il vissuto invidiabile. Ritmo, strumenti musicali e voci nere, graffianti e no, regnano sovrani nei suoi set, ma anche nelle sue innumerevoli produzioni distribuite dalle migliori label mondiali. Si potrebbe parlare per ore di quei tempi, ma vi consiglio di premere il pulsante “play” su un suo podcast o su un video disponibile su YouTube per essere catapultati nelle atmosfere soul e uniche dei club più esclusivi della East Coast degli anni ‘90. Testo di Alessandro Doria

Hause music has changed in many ways through its evolution so there is an element of confusion about its origins.  Talking  about deep house, how not to mention Kerri Chandler? Chandler was born in New Jersey in 1969, his dad was a dj and since Kerri  was very young he always had passion for music which  became stronger and stronger through the years. Later on while the deep house was booming, he used to go to the best New York clubs where the best djs of the 90s were playing (they are still remembered as legends). Progress, innovation and hazards are not his style,  he’s always been faithful to his deep sound samples and his whole speaker system, you can tell by those habits he had an enviable past. His dj sets are based on rhythm, instruments and scratchy (or not) black voices, that also applies to the music he produces in collaboration with the best music labels worldwide. We could keep on talking about those days for hours but instead I recommend to find one of his podcasts or videos on youtube and press “play”, that should be enough to take you back to the top clubs of the 90s on the East Coast where the atmosphere was truly unique. Testo di Alessandro Doria

SHOP THE LOOK

Giubbino in denim J Brand, camicia in flanella Mauro Grifoni, tshirt in cotone Acne.

Cinque tasche in denim Nine in the Morning.

While writing this column I have been thinking many times about the beauty of certain fabrics and patterns used in menswear. The most consolidated traditional references embody the history of costume, they are a precious heritage which has been guiding and influencing men’s aesthetic choices for over a century. Menswear: so very different from womenswear, it’s a more conventional world where changes occurs gradually as they remain strongly anchored in tradition. One of the latest “little revolutions” in menswear involves the use of classic and warm fabrics for sportswear: an option that has been blocking the invasion of nylon and other cold syntetic fabrics. The real innovation consists in the fact that the fabric’s design makes the whole outfit look a lot more elegant and classy. Patterns like Prince of Wales , pinstripe and tartan (kilts always have tartan patterns), pied-de-poule and pied-de-coq (a kind of little square with a “hook” similar to a spur) have been used also for casualwear. Quilted jackets and shiny down coats are over: let’s welcome the new sportswear, which makes it possible to beat the cold weather and feel comfortable even riding a scooter yet maintaining an exquisitely modern and refined look. Picture by Andrea Gandini, sport jacket by Fay(F/W 2013)