Fin dal primo giorno di PRESS-DAY emerge la caratteristica dominante delle collezioni per la prossima primavera/estate, non tanto attraverso delle macro tendenze comuni (eccetto il colore, praticamente onnipresente), bensì espressa grazie ad un evidente slancio dei designer di moda proteso verso il futuro. È, questo, l’anno dell’ “ingresso” in una nuova fase di creatività che proietta in una nuova era, che personalmente definisco come l’anno zero.

MICHAEL KORS

UP TO BE

TOD’S

GANT

Tecnologic accessories are being involved and actually used to create different forms of art, from filmmaking to fashion. Everyone remembers some scenes from 2001 Space Oddysseyand also the more recent Rick Gentry’s artworks which have been realized with floppy discs. There are many different cases of digital contamination even in fashion, (one among many the electronic circuit inspired prints by Christopher Kane). It’s even more surprising when a brand founded in 1837, it’s experimenting with this kind of creativity on the most traditional of man accessories: the tie. 8 Ties is a project the maison Hermes has commissioned to the french artist with mexican roots Miguel Chevalier, which uses computers as his main media of expression, (exhibition till october 27, Palazzo Morando, Milan).The installation, (at the bottom) has been realized so that each one of the patterns created by the artist becomes animated by the viewer’s movements, creating a special soundtrack. A second artwork, shows the patterns in addition to the french philosopher Christine Buci-Glucksmann’s words. The harmony in the classicism of Chevalier’s patterns, it’s incredible. It makes us see how pois and lines are really coming from a usb key and electric cables.

Sunglasses have been a must-have since the maisons have decided to focus on accessories, realizing ad hoc advertising campaigns. Always keeping an eye on savings though: while they are shooting the colletion, in the same location, with the same sobjects and -obviously-the same photographer, they take some pictures on the side to represent the most desiderable of all designer accessories: sunglasses. Corrective lenses are for every season, but now the same strategy it’s being applied to sunlenses, which are not anymore being proposed only from april to july, the “hot” magazine issues. It’s interesting to think about how our habits have changed, if we take a look at our family album’s pictures prior to the 80s. Before then, sunglasses were only used for practical reasons. Only celebrities used to wear sunglasses even on rainy days or indoor, but as always, society is indulgent with them. Even though I’m not part of the Very Important People, I can’t resist the temptation of hidind my eyes even during the winter, is it that arrogance or insicurity? Mah. One thing is for sure: not taking your sunglasses off while you’re having a conversation it’s a sign of intolerable rudeness.

Apre a Palazzo Morando a Milano l’installazione virtuale ispirata alle stampe della capsule collection di Hermès “8 Ties“. Un progetto voluto dalla maison francese per presentare la nuova capsule di otto cravatte, la cui particolarità è costituita dalla stampa: i disegni infatti, apparentemente classici, prendono in realtà ispirazione da icone tecnologiche, che diventano talvolta veri e propri pattern stampati all over. Interruttori, chiavette USB, cavetti elettrici, che si legano all’immaginario dell’artista Miguel Chevalier, pioniere dell’arte virtuale e digitale, chiamato a celebrare la collezione attraverso due video installazioni interattive.

Foto di Andrea Serafini

“8 Ties”
In mostra a Milano dal 17 al 27 ottobre 2012
Palazzo Morando, via Sant’Andrea 6
Orari di apertura: dalle ore 10.00 alle ore 19.00.
Ingresso libero

Il mix di macro fantasie in voga negli anni d’oro del fashion: mescolare le stampe è tornato di moda, ma oggi i disegni sono molto piccoli. Mondo Uomo marzo 1989 foto di Giovanni Gastel. Giacca Katharine Hamnett, camicia Byblos e jeans Fiorucci.

The mix of macro patterns in vogue in the golden age of fashion: mixing prints is back into fashion industry, but today the designs are very small. From Mondo Uomo, March 1989 photo by Giovanni Gastel. Kathrine Hamnett jacket, shirt Byblos and jeans Fiorucci.