La prima suggestione che arriva è lo slancio con cui i due designer creano le collezioni. Immediatamente dopo si capisce la passione con cui affrontano questo difficilissimo mestiere e il loro desiderio di innovare e di rompere con la tradizione e, soprattutto, con il passato. Sebbene la maglieria, che è il punto forte della produzione Les Hommes, nel fitting e nell’uso del jacquard e del patchwork rimandi ai pullover in voga negli anni ’80, la loro bravura sta nella riedizione contemporanea di quella certa attitudine che fa ancora discutere. Personalmente sono affascinato dallo styling a strati, tuttavia – se fossi in loro – lo ripulirei un po’. Nel girato che vi propongo, Tom Notte e Bart Vandebosch raccontano in esclusiva per The Men Issue il loro impegno e amore per la moda, mentre scorrono le immagini della sfilata FW 2012, che tra poco verrà consegnata alle boutiques.
The first thing you notice is the enthusiasm the two designers have for their collections.Afterwards you get how big is the passion they have for this difficoult job, their desire for innovation and their intention of cutting out tradition and the past in general. Even though their knitwear, which is the selling point for Les Hommes, remind us of the 80s for their fitting and use of patchwork and jacquard, the duo’s cleverness lies into the ability of suggesting that certain attitude that keeps people talking. Personally, I ‘ve always been fascinated by the styling of layers, however if it was up to me, I’d probably simplify it a little bit. Exclusively for The Men Issue, in this video Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch tells us all about their love and devotion to fashion, with images of the FW2012 collection, soon available in boutiques.
Accessories keep on changing, adapting to the new shapes of collections season by season and redefining the style of fashion. For example, if pants with pinces would make a come back, than belts would be thinner; when the jacket fits smoothly the revers gets larger and even the tie turn to be 8 centimeters and tailored without lining so that it goes better with the outfit.
Fabrics has big influence as well, when floating like the typical Armani’s ones. If the shape of the trousers is large is preferble to wear swede shoes, it will help avoiding dangling pants. Armani loved his silk printed ties with 40s patterns in the 80s, to light up his typical shades. Afterwards, the minimal wave transformed our way of dressing and commanded severe silhouettes avoiding patterns. Plain colours and black were predominant.Nowadays the macro-trends ane gone for good and is easy to get confused and choose the wrong accessories.That’s why having sense of proportions becomes indispensable.
In anteprima la video intervista di Roberta Armani a Daniel Wu, in esclusiva per The Men Issue. Le riprese sono state girate durante la sfilata/evento One Night Only in Beijing presso il New Tank di Pechino.
Here the preview of the exclusive video interview of Roberta Armani with Daniel Wu for The Men Issue, recorded at the New Tank in Beijing during the fashion show/event One Night Only in Beijing.
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Io Donna and Sette.
